
Howard Springs or Darwin outer suburbs
Best first-night option after pickup: plug in, stock up, learn the van before the park miles begin.
Free camping is not a free-for-all in Kakadu: sleep outside a designated campground and the ranger can turn your sunset into an expensive little lesson. It is a national park the size of a small country, with crocodiles in the billabongs and road trains on the highway, so a Star RV campervan Kakadu run needs more planning than chucking thongs in a drawer.
This guide is for self-drivers hiring a van or motorhome and sleeping in it — powered sites, unpowered bush camps, dump points, fuel, water, sealed roads and the bits you should not take a hire van down. Use it to plan a practical Top End loop, then check availability online when your dates and van size line up.
Most Star RV campervan hire Kakadu trips start in Darwin, not inside the park. That is handy: you can do a supermarket shop, fill the water tank, test the fridge, and work out which cupboard the kettle escaped into before the distances get serious.
The sealed loop runs Darwin to Jabiru via the Arnhem Highway, then south through Cooinda and out to Pine Creek on the Kakadu Highway, returning to Darwin on the Stuart Highway. It is roughly 700–750 km before side trips, which sounds neat until you add lookouts, boat cruises, campground detours and the great Top End tradition of stopping because a buffalo is standing in the road like it owns the rego papers.
A Star RV motorhome Kakadu itinerary works best when you treat the van as a comfortable home on wheels, not a river-crossing audition tape. The Arnhem Highway, Kakadu Highway, Jabiru access, Nourlangie/Burrungkuy area, Cooinda and Pine Creek route are generally sealed and suitable for 2WD campervans in the Dry season.
The famous headline tracks are a different beast. Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls roads are 4WD-only, rough, sandy and seasonal, with corrugations that can rearrange your cutlery and your insurance cover. Many hire agreements exclude unsealed roads except short approved access tracks to recognised campgrounds, and water crossings are usually a hard no.
Inside Kakadu, you sleep in designated campgrounds only. Some have showers and toilets, some are basic bush sites, and most require online booking or payment through the park system. If you need air-conditioning, battery recovery or a long shower after a Yellow Water sunrise, book a powered site at Jabiru or Cooinda rather than hoping your leisure battery can perform miracles in 34°C heat.
National park campgrounds are the sweet spot for self-contained travellers: unpowered, close to walks, and quieter once the day-trippers leave. Merl near Ubirr is good for rock art and sunset; Mardukal near Cooinda is handy for Yellow Water. Always check seasonal access, generator rules and fire restrictions.
The main Kakadu loop is not remote by outback standards, but it still asks for grown-up fuel habits. Darwin to Jabiru is about 255 km; Jabiru to Cooinda about 55 km; Cooinda to Pine Creek about 160 km; Pine Creek back to Darwin about 225 km. Add side trips to Ubirr, Burrungkuy, lookouts and boat ramps and you can easily add another 150 km.
Road trains use the Arnhem and Stuart highways, and they are not decorative. Give them room, keep left, and if one is overtaking you, back off slightly so it can clear the manoeuvre. A 2-berth camper might sip 11–13 L/100 km; a larger motorhome can use 14–18 L/100 km, especially with air-con and headwinds.
For a first-time self-drive trip, 5 days is the practical middle ground. It gives you one night around Darwin or Howard Springs to settle into the van, two or three nights inside Kakadu, and one easy run back without driving tired into Darwin traffic with a half-packed fridge.
If you only have 3 days, focus on Jabiru, Ubirr and Burrungkuy/Nourlangie, then return the way you came. With 6 or 7 days, add Cooinda, Yellow Water, Pine Creek and perhaps Litchfield National Park on the way back, depending on road and campground availability.

Best first-night option after pickup: plug in, stock up, learn the van before the park miles begin.

Handy base for Ubirr, Cahills Crossing, fuel, groceries and a dump point check.

Unpowered bush camping near Ubirr; seasonal access and mozzies both deserve respect.
Sealed run with last big shop in Darwin; refuel before entering park country.
Sunset rock art stop; check seasonal access and avoid dusk driving back if wildlife is active.
Sealed sightseeing day with walks, lookouts and a practical overnight near Yellow Water.
Kakadu Highway exit; do not detour onto 4WD waterfall tracks in a hire motorhome.
Easy sealed return with fuel at Pine Creek, Adelaide River and Darwin approaches.
“Free camping is not a free-for-all in Kakadu: sleep outside a designated campground and the ranger can turn your sunset into an expensive little lesson.”
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